We often feel as if we lead double lives in SA. During the week we see many examples of people desperately struggling to cope with the realities of abject poverty. Then at weekends we disappear off to enjoy one or other extraordinary location. Sometimes the clash is contrast is particularly shocking.
Last week at school we ran out of water. It has been extremely hot (about 40 degrees) in the last couple of weeks and hasn’t rained much. We have been without water from our tap since the beginning of the year. Without tap water, the children rely entirely on the JoJos for drinking and washing. On Thursday our supply of rain water ran out. The same day, a nearby water source also dried up. Worse still, we also ran out of toilet paper.
Without water the school ‘ladies’ explained that they would also not be able to cook for the children. A number of our children are orphans and receive one meal a day.
And so we faced the prospect of dangerously unsanitary conditions and desperately thirsty and hungry children.
Fortunately, the ladies were able to get water the following day. I was also able to bring 50 litres down from Mosvold in the back of my car. Meaning that we had enough for cooking, washing and drinking. And I can now bring the same amount of water each day until a weather change.
Nevertheless, the episode highlighted the complete absence of emergency contingency plans in the area. There seems to be no telephone number to ring to report the problem. Nobody to contact to find a solution. Instead each community is left to cope as best they can. Until such help exists, the theoretical rights of the children (that they learn about in Life Orientation classes when studying the South African Constitution) will remain very meaningless.
Tuesday, 15 February 2011
Monday, 14 February 2011
Siyabonga
Having neglected blog duties for the last two weeks I have much to report. A week ago we were very generously put up for a night at Hluhluwe River Lodge by Aunt Annie and Uncle Peter. Both were on top form – albeit in their very different ways.
Travelling to the lodge I had some apprehension about how we would fill our time. Having put forward a number of options for activities to my Aunt, none seemed to appeal to my very open minded Uncle. My trump card was a game drive round the world famous nearby Game Park. What could possibly be disagreeable about sitting on a game drive vehicle, surveying the beautiful countryside, birds and animals? But no. Apparently this would bore and reduce time spent at far more interesting watering holes.
Fortunately, we managed to identify an ideal afternoon activity that would ideally suit my uncle. Horse riding to the nearby lake for a drink at sunset. With great relief we all walked off to find a stable companion. And off we headed into the bush. Everyone extremely happy.
Having ridden for a couple of hours we reached our destination. There with a big grin was Uncle Peter – drink in hand and unsaddled from his chrome nag.
The evening was spent out on a deck under the stars recounting our stories about life in a rural South African hospital and school. It also provided an opportunity to pass on some basic Zulu to my inquisitive Uncle. Latching onto the word for ‘thank you’ (siyabonga) he immediately developed great confidence with the locals. This was continued throughout the stay. Attempts to speak other words were less successful; so instead words like ‘adios’ began to appear.
During the evening, my darling aunt organised for the following day, an hour long plane ride over the local scenery. And thus, Mary and I were able to go to sleep dreaming of recreating a favourite cinematic scene – Redford and Streep flying over the Kenyan bush.
In the morning we said goodbye to Peter (happy not to come having fallen asleep last time he took a sight seeing flight). The airfield was located in the middle of Phinda National Park. Teaming with animals we were able to spot giraffes, wildebeests and elephants taking off and landing. Once in the air, we flew across the biggest salt water and fresh water lakes in South Africa. As we flew over these we could count dozens of hippos parked together in different parts of the water. And we then headed along the coast. Looking down we spotted schools of dolphins diving in and out of the Indian Ocean.
The Out of Africa re-enactment was completed as we flew over the coastline. There it was, that the pilot asked if I would like to take control of the plane. And so, with a great sense of excitement, I began to manoeuvre our bird like machine. First a tip of the wing left to look down into the sea. Then a tip of the left wing to observe the coastline. Pushing the steering wheel away took us downwards a hundred feet. And then almost immediately, I pulled it back to soar up again. Turning to share my delight with my wife and aunt I was just in time to see Mary vomit several times into her reinforced (thank you Aunt Annie) sick bag. Guiltily I handed back the controls. There ended the flying lesson.
Despite the vomit moment, the flight now belongs on our list of top moments in SA.
Sadly we were unable to host Annie and Peter in Ingwavuma (as had been the plan). This was a particular disappointment to the locals, many of whom had been given advanced notice of the visit of a great English chief and his wife. Tales of his wonderful grasp of the local language will, though, live on.
Saturday, 5 February 2011
Only in Africa
Have a look at this story from the BBC website - Africa section. Your challenge is to read it and to keep a straight face.
The article
Two of Malawi's most senior judicial officials are arguing over whether a new bill includes a provision that outlaws breaking wind in public.
Justice Minister George Chaponda says the new bill would criminalise flatulence to promote "public decency".
"Just go to the toilet when you feel like farting," he told local radio.
However, he was directly contradicted by Solicitor General Anthony Kamanga, who says the reference to "fouling the air" means pollution.
"How any reasonable or sensible person can construe the provision to criminalising farting in public is beyond me," he said, adding that the prohibition contained in the new law has been in place since 1929.
The Local Courts Bill, to be introduced next week reads: "Any person who vitiates the atmosphere in any place so as to make it noxious to the public to the health of persons in general dwelling or carrying on business in the neighbourhood or passing along a public way shall be guilty of a misdemeanour."
Mr Chaponda, a trained lawyer, insists that this includes farting.
"Would you be happy to see people farting anyhow?" he asked on the popular "Straight Talk" programme on Malawi's Capital Radio.
He said that local chiefs would deal with any offenders.
When asked whether it could be enforced, he said it would be similar to laws banning urinating in public.'
What price MR Cameron responding to the story by calling for a national debate in the UK. Might the idea be a vote winner? I'm certainly a supporter of Chapondaism.
The article
Two of Malawi's most senior judicial officials are arguing over whether a new bill includes a provision that outlaws breaking wind in public.
Justice Minister George Chaponda says the new bill would criminalise flatulence to promote "public decency".
"Just go to the toilet when you feel like farting," he told local radio.
However, he was directly contradicted by Solicitor General Anthony Kamanga, who says the reference to "fouling the air" means pollution.
"How any reasonable or sensible person can construe the provision to criminalising farting in public is beyond me," he said, adding that the prohibition contained in the new law has been in place since 1929.
The Local Courts Bill, to be introduced next week reads: "Any person who vitiates the atmosphere in any place so as to make it noxious to the public to the health of persons in general dwelling or carrying on business in the neighbourhood or passing along a public way shall be guilty of a misdemeanour."
Mr Chaponda, a trained lawyer, insists that this includes farting.
"Would you be happy to see people farting anyhow?" he asked on the popular "Straight Talk" programme on Malawi's Capital Radio.
He said that local chiefs would deal with any offenders.
When asked whether it could be enforced, he said it would be similar to laws banning urinating in public.'
What price MR Cameron responding to the story by calling for a national debate in the UK. Might the idea be a vote winner? I'm certainly a supporter of Chapondaism.
Friday, 4 February 2011
Ntabayengwe, T20 and Russian Romance
It is Friday and I have just completed the second week of the new school year. I have the following to report:
1. I am enjoying teaching my top year group – year 7. I taught them last year and many have made good progress. They tolerate my eccentricities and try hard.
2. I am haing a much tougher time with grade 6. Most are shy and very reluctant to contribute. And a couple have behaviour that belongs in an English school.
3. The Principal continues to amuse me. At the end of the last week I had a free period and was reading in his ‘office’. Midway through the Russian revolution (I am onto my last book – Dr Zhivago) he asked if I could hear the noise,
‘What noise, Mr Mkumbusi?’
‘The sound of the young hyenas calling.’
‘No, I cannot hear them.’
‘Listen carefully.’
‘I still cannot hear them.’
‘Eish Mr Toulson. I am not being serious. Can you not hear the grade r children howling for their mothers? How we all must suffer!’
4. I am making progress in organising a school trip to the beach. The education department policy document requires me to set up several committees. Rather than doing this I have produced a couple of sets of fictitious minutes. These give due consideration to the ridiculous guide lines on safety precautions. One section reminds trip coordinators that not all areas in SA have mobile phone reception. Thus alternative means of emergency communication should be considered. I am still wondering what they have in mind.
5. We lost our first – T20 – cricket match of the year. We spent a couple of afternoons this week training. All toiled hard under the midday son. And I promised the boys that their hard work would be rewarded.
Opting to bat first, we suffered several early wicket losses. Fortunately our steely middle order offered resistance and we ended up posting a competitive 43 run total.
Taking early key opposition wickets, confidence grew among Ntabayengwe. Only for their coach to insist on a suicidal ‘everyone must bowl strategy’. The unforgiving umpire (also their coach) then proceeded to award the opposition nearly 30 no ball/wides.
A string of sporting clichés helped to reduce the disappointment on the faces of the Ntabayengwe boys at the end. As compensation for my part in their downfall, I have promised to arrange another match soon.
This weekend
Away from school, Mary is on call this weekend. So we have nothing exciting planned. I foresee a weekend of Siberian love and romance.
1. I am enjoying teaching my top year group – year 7. I taught them last year and many have made good progress. They tolerate my eccentricities and try hard.
2. I am haing a much tougher time with grade 6. Most are shy and very reluctant to contribute. And a couple have behaviour that belongs in an English school.
3. The Principal continues to amuse me. At the end of the last week I had a free period and was reading in his ‘office’. Midway through the Russian revolution (I am onto my last book – Dr Zhivago) he asked if I could hear the noise,
‘What noise, Mr Mkumbusi?’
‘The sound of the young hyenas calling.’
‘No, I cannot hear them.’
‘Listen carefully.’
‘I still cannot hear them.’
‘Eish Mr Toulson. I am not being serious. Can you not hear the grade r children howling for their mothers? How we all must suffer!’
4. I am making progress in organising a school trip to the beach. The education department policy document requires me to set up several committees. Rather than doing this I have produced a couple of sets of fictitious minutes. These give due consideration to the ridiculous guide lines on safety precautions. One section reminds trip coordinators that not all areas in SA have mobile phone reception. Thus alternative means of emergency communication should be considered. I am still wondering what they have in mind.
5. We lost our first – T20 – cricket match of the year. We spent a couple of afternoons this week training. All toiled hard under the midday son. And I promised the boys that their hard work would be rewarded.
Opting to bat first, we suffered several early wicket losses. Fortunately our steely middle order offered resistance and we ended up posting a competitive 43 run total.
Taking early key opposition wickets, confidence grew among Ntabayengwe. Only for their coach to insist on a suicidal ‘everyone must bowl strategy’. The unforgiving umpire (also their coach) then proceeded to award the opposition nearly 30 no ball/wides.
A string of sporting clichés helped to reduce the disappointment on the faces of the Ntabayengwe boys at the end. As compensation for my part in their downfall, I have promised to arrange another match soon.
This weekend
Away from school, Mary is on call this weekend. So we have nothing exciting planned. I foresee a weekend of Siberian love and romance.
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