Some quite extraordinary experiences with Mary and Eimear in the first half of our two week break. Thus far we have spent the time viewing animals. We have visited both Huhluwe and Ithala Game Reserves. In both we have seen an abundance of life (but no cats and no leopards!)
Though Ithala has much less game than Huhluwe, it is situated in a very mountainous area. Dramatic cliff faces provide the backdrop for viewing the animals. This made our days their as memorable as our time in Huhluwe. The absence of animals also forced me to take more notice of the birds. I am starting to be able to get slightly (but not much) beyond saying - 'small bird', or 'colourful bird' or 'big bird'.
Our camp in Ithala was open to the animals. They made full use of their rights of access - especially the monkeys and baboons. These close relatives prowled round our accommodation trying to find a way inside. Once, Eimear very gently ushered one out of the kitchen (done with such Irish charm that the beast didn't take anything with him). Shameless burglers, each time we left our accommodation, we watched the apes 'casing' our rondavel. (Theft, it seems, is an alien concept for them; the moment Mr Monkey takes something he considers it his.)
In between our safari trips, we spent a night at Kosi Bay. Mary and I have been there before but wanted to return with Eimear to go turtle spotting. November to December is when they lay their eggs. Kosi Bay - with short beaches and high dunes is the preferred location for loggerhead and leatherback turtles to bury their soontobeborn. To borrow from a London gangster movie - it was emotional.
The process begins with the turtles (we only saw loggerheads) allowing themselves to be washed ashore. The giant shelled creatures then 'walk' approximately 40-50 metres and park themselves high on the dunes. If satisfied with the sand quality, they begin preparing the site. This includes digging a hole approximately 80 cms deep for their eggs. If disturbed at this stage, they return to the sea.
Having designed their nesting spot, the female begins firing ping-pong sized eggs - sometimes six at a time - into the sand. This lasts around 20 minutes. Once finished (they usually deposit 100-200 eggs), they tip sand gently over the hole using their back 'flippers'. With their remaining energy they struggle back into the sea - visibly exhausted. So amazed were we by the spectacle, we have already booked ourselves in for hatching time in February (Eimear has pledged to return).
Our next destination is the Drakensberg Mountains. Here 'we' plan to do lots of walking. The only complicating factor is that our schedule has begun to take its toll. Eimear has taken an involuntary vow of silence - having lost her voice. My stomach is doubling up for a vuvuzela having eaten some dodgy impala pie. And Mary is tired from her long hours of work. I have pointed out to Mary that even Tour De France cyclists get a rest day. I'm not sure if this will make much of a difference.
ps - I must thank Tricia for sending Mary's sun hat. Not only does it look very fetching but she also now resembles a character from an Agatha Christie drama. I am enjoying doing regular Hercule Poirot impressions.
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