The Game

As forecast, we returned to Tembe Elephant Park for the weekend. The park isn’t one of the most prestigious in SA. But this adds to its appeal. It is always quiet. And it is run by the local community. This creates a much easier atmosphere.

As the name suggests, the park is renowned for its elephant. One hundred years ago, there were few of these left in South Africa. The last handful ‘hid’ (elephants are amazingly good at hiding) in pockets. One group was the Tembe elephants – able to conceal themselves in the thick forests of the surrounding areas. Elsewhere Addo elephants and Kruger elephants also managed, just, to survive the era of the game hunter.

There are now nearly 300 elephants in Tembe.* This makes it possibly the most densely elephanted area in the country.

Understandably Tembe’s big trunked survivors were initially very unkeen on game viewing vehicles. In close confrontations, they quickly became very aggressive. And so the rangers made sure to keep a large distance. Over the past ten years, they have become much more trusting. Elephant with young remain extremely protective and therefore volatile. But Tembe’s single bulls are now very friendly. And polite. Looked after by the park’s most experienced guide, we spent much of our weekend in close proximity to a number of enormous bulls. Knowing most, and being very familiar with their behaviour, he allowed the elephants to walk right up to the bonnet and then past our vehicles. Each time, the elephant approached. Stood in front of the car. And then, with great courtesy, walked round to rejoin the road.

Elephants are not alone in the park. And we saw so much else. But it was a very different experience to Tembe in August (our first weekend in SA). In August (towards the end of the dry season), there was a distinct water shortage. And the bush was relatively sparse. This combination make the winter months the easiest time of year to view the game. Visiting in January means the opposite – the bush is very dense and waterholes are all around.

Though it is harder to spot the animals now, there are also big advantages. One of these is that there are lots of young animals to be seen. Another is the change in bird life. The scenery takes on a different kind of beauty. And, the skills of the guide become much more apparent. Invisible animals must be found using other senses. Here our guide for the weekend was brilliant. For Tom used absolutely everything to track the animals.

We found all sorts of animals and birds hidden among the bush. This included the depressingly rare black rhino – our first sighting in SA.** We saw our first jackals (the rare side striped variety). And we found four different eagles including the elusive Southern Banded Snake Eagle.

Despite being more than satisfied with seeing so much, Tom was very keen to find some of the lions. Excitedly, he picked up their tracks. Then he heard an unusual warning call of the Nyala, usually indicative of a major predator being close to us. Driving on he saw a number of yellow billed kites sitting in a tree. A very good indication of a recent kill. Then the arrival of jackals – keen scavengers. Finally we picked up the scent of death in the air – the distinct smell of carcass. Using the signs Tom stopped the car. ‘The lions are here.’

And there, or there abouts, they remained. For most of the weekend. Very close to the road. But out of sight to us. We returned several times. Each time we returned we saw new lion tracks – showing some activity. One set of paws led to a water hole. But each of their excursions was perfectly timed for our departure. By the end of the weekend, and numerous trips back, Tom had brought electronic signalling equipment. The last recourse of the desperate guide, he was able to show us how close we were to them. Still they kept their anonymity.

But our failure to view lions again did not matter. Tom had provided much more entertainment. And so we had discovered the joy of being able to find an animal. And for a moment I wondered. I wondered. Perhaps it will be a let down. Perhaps I am more satisfied without. Maybe I don’t now want to. Except I do. I still want to see a bloody leopard.

* In fact the numbers in the herds are growing too fast. To combat this, contraceptives are being used to control the numbers. One of our group (to remain nameless) asked what form this took. Disappointingly, despite regular sex education classes, the male elephants are not good at putting on condoms. Instead, females receive the ocp.

** We thought we saw this on a previous self-drive in Hluhluwe. But photographic inspection by a Mosvold expert revealed the rhinos to be white.